The Sinai has an interesting & volatile history. Like so much of the land in Africa its ownership has been repeatedly fought over. In the case of the Sinai, the two most recent competitors have been neighbouring Israel and its present owner Egypt. Israel initally invaded the Sinai region in 1956 in response to the Egyptian alignment and aid to Palestine.

For over 10 years following the invasion, UN peacekeepers patrolled the region to maintain a relative calm. A month long full-scale war broke out in 1973 between Egypt, Israel and Syria and friction between the nations continued until 1979 when a peace treaty was signed between Israel and Egypt. Israel finally left the Sinai penisula in 1982.

Possibly due to the historic conflict there sometimes remains a slight tension in the air between the frequent Israeli tourists to the region and their Egyptian hosts. Prices on occasion are escalated and a concealed hostility echoes beneath the usual pleasantries of the local shopkeepers. In the same way, some tourists covet a superior air towards their waiters, shopkeepers and guides which does nothing to halt the underlying ripples. All of this becomes part of the experience and reality of an area desired by two nations, and it does nothing to detract from visiting the spectacular destination.

There are a number of excellent beach resorts aligned along the eastern coast line of the Sinai, including Nuweiba, Dahub, Na'ama Bay, & Sharm El-Sheikh. At all of the Sinai resorts, visitors are able to undertake an array of different diving courses and there are a multitude of dive operators. For those not ready to undergo the whole underwater experience, snorkelling is a satisfying alternative and readily available to everyone who can swim. Of all the destinations the most well-known dive spot is Sharm-El-Sheikh where the coral reefs rank among the worlds best.

In terms of places to stay, each resort has a different feel some catering more for tourists providing lots of nightlife and restaurants, others more sleepy, traditional settings where the enjoyment lies in relaxing on the picturesque beaches, sampling the diverse cuisine and absorbing the unique Bedouin cultures and lifestyles.

Egypt overall is a harsh land with a fierce climate, shortage of water and an unforgiving, relentless desert landscape. The Sinai is no different from this and thus the Bedouin people have created a way of life which has allowed them to survive successfully in ruthless conditions for hundreds of years. A nomadic people, the Bedouins utilize the little resources that are available through strategically moving to different regions of the desert throughout the year. They use the stars and familiar landmarks to navigate their journey in search of water for themselves, their families, goats and camels. Wisdom and experience allows them to survive the extreme conditions prevalent in the region. In terms of tourism some of the Bedouin people have adapted to the influx in the Sinai and there may be the opportunity to buy traditional artifacts from the Bedouin people.

The Sinai region is significant to religions due to the cascade of "Holy Mountains" in the area and in particular, Mount Sinai, where Moses was said to have received the 10 commandments from God. Each year thousands of people undertake a pilgrimage to visit the top of Mount Sinai which stands at around 7,500 feet high. Whatever your religions or beliefs the visitor cannot helped to feel moved by this almost magical and extremely spiritual destination.

There are two routes up to the summit. The route which Moses was supposed to have taken comprises of around 3,000 steps and is a trickier more strenuous route to the top. An alternative and more favoured route is a combination of paths and some steps when nearing the peak.

The popularity of the second route lies not only in the fact that it is an easier passage but is also related to the time of day that many visitors undertake their climb. A large number undertake their pilgramage in the middle of the night setting off around 2 or 3am with the goal being to reach the top by sunrise, the time when Moses received the commandments.

This means however that the mountain lies in pitch black apart from the candles and torches that people carry to light their way. The first pathway via the steps is not so clearly marked and if you are keen to take this route it is advised that you travel this way on the way down when it is daylight and easier to pick your pathway amongst the huge rocks. In all the climb usually takes on average 3 hours.

Visitors need to be well with an average level of fitness but it is certainly not out of the reach of the majority of people. There is extra help for those who don't fancy walking all the way, in the form of camels. There are a number of camels which take people on the same pathway as the rest of the walkers and travel a good stretch up the mountain. Jostling with the camels adds to the overall entertainment of trying to ensure you stay on the right path and avoid a collision with the sometimes overly-enthusiastic snorting trekkers.

A nightly climb appealed to our sense of adventure and being relatively fit we began our climb around 2.30am. As we set off we were surrounded by others and there was a buzz of excitement as if we were about to experience our first midnight feast. Initially people hustled past one another in their desire to reach the top but this quickly filtered out as the climb became a little steeper and more challenging.

Perched strategically along the mountain path are atmospheric teahouses where people are able to buy not only tea, but other refreshments to aid them along their way. A quick breather and a sip of hot tea did wonders to energize us for the next stage of the climb. Towards the peak of the mountain, the crowds of people became more dispersed and it was darker and a little more difficult to pick our way.

Arriving at the top of Mount Sinai there was a tremendous sense of collective achievement and people quickly found a place to sit at the top where they were able to watch the sunrise. It does get crowded as the masses arrive so it is good to pick a spot carefully once you reach the summit. After all that energy expended on the climb up, you quickly cool down at the higher altitudes. There are a decent number of blankets available to keep visitors warm as they await the sun but if you can manage to, it is worth carrying an additional layer with you to wear at the summit.

If you are one of the first to arrive at the summit, there is the fascinating art of people-watching to enjoy as others make their way up the mountainside. On our trip there was an incredibly diverse range of visitors from youthful groups of friends to families to vast numbers of nuns standing out in their habits. Perhaps winner of the most inappropriately dressed was an Italian middle-aged lady who was covered head to toe in jewellery, a designer suit and a pair of gold high-heeled Guccis. I don't know about God but I was certainly impressed with how this dear lady managed to clamber up the mountain in her 2 inch spikes.

When the sun finally appeared, most people watched in awe at the spectacular view suddenly made available by the light. The rocky barren mountain ranges shimmered in the fresh light and those here because of religious reasons undertook their spiritual blessings and prayers. Delight and inspiration surrounded us and we enjoyed and watched others experience a crystal clear moment.

Following sunrise many people decided to try the alternative route back down the mountainside, that is, the way that Moses took. We went this way and it was certainly more demanding on the legs because we were constantly using muscles vigerously as we climbed down the steps as opposed to the exertion of just walking down the slopes. However it did give a different view of the landscape and we didn't have to cope with camels.

At the bottom of Mount Sinai lies the infamous St Catherine's Monastery, which was built in the 6th Century and is surrounded by solid brick walls originally created to defend the structure from its many attackers over the centuries. It comprises of a number of important historical buildings and is blessed with diverse cultural influences across the ages.

For many the most well-known feature of the Monastery is the Burning Bush which lies at the heart of the complex. There are various buildings to explore including the chapel, basilica, mosque and library which houses the second largest collection of Christian manuscripts in the world but is not accessible to the public without written permission. The monastery is a very popular destination for visitors and is usually crowded. If the excursion up Mount Sinai has now begun to take its toll, a visit to the monastery on a different day is recommended to fully appreciate its significance.

The villages close to monastery are also worth an exploration as they offer an insight into the lifestyle of the people in the Sinai region. Here there is a genuine warmth and hospitality to visitors not so obvious in the other regions of Egypt visited.

The Sinai region of Egypt is one that should not be missed. It offers a contrasting experience from Egypt's major Nile cities and provides a different picture of Egyptian life. Its beaches offer a relaxing, laidback environment away from the hustle of cities and sight-seeing. If desired there are superb diving and snorkelling opportunites at some of the best coral reefs in the world and to top it all there is the highly-recommended adventure at Mount Sinai.

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Sources/Further information

Photos courtesy of Photo Reality

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